Lee’s collection with renowned British designer Nigel Cabourn is now available in the U.S.
Lee x Nigel Cabourn OX’ed Silver is a curated collection that honors archival American workwear and Japanese craftsmanship. The collection reimagines Lee garments worn across America’s railways, ranches and rodeos from the 1920s to the 1940s through the creative lens of the late designer’s suiting label Ox’ed Silver.
Cabourn died in June at age 76.
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“Nigel Cabourn had a distinct approach to fabrication and construction and a passion for workwear. We are honored that some of Lee’s most iconic heritage styles are recreated through his Ox’ed Silver label. Each piece tells part of Lee’s history while highlighting the artistry of Japanese denim,” said Sedgwick Cole Jr., Lee’s global design director.
Highly textured fabrics give the collection a sartorial look. Fabrics combine rope-dyeing and sulfur-dyeing techniques. Others use cheese-dyed yarns to create the collection’s distinctive olive denim. The collection also incorporates hank-dyed yarns, allowing indigo to penetrate deeply into the core before tannin and iron mordants are applied to achieve a darker, aged appearance.
At the center of the collection is Brurry Denim, a proprietary Japanese selvedge developed for the collection using intentionally irregular yarns inspired by the imperfections of century-old fabrics. Woven on modified vintage shuttle looms, the right-hand twill is designed to fade and evolve unpredictably, so no two pieces age quite the same way.
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