The men's and women's lineup featured crinkled suits, lightweight linen and distressed finishes for a lived-in look.

An army marches on its stomach, but not the Emporio Armani one. This battalion is powered by soft suits, distressed fabrics, organic embroidery and tie-dye finishes — and, more often than not, it wins.

Spring was a season of transition for Emporio Armani, with designers Leo Dell’Orco and Silvana Armani staging a presentation in the vast hall of the Tadao Ando-designed Armani/Teatro on Via Bergognone.

Minimalist mannequins were lined up like a file of soldiers so that guests could feel the fabrics, and get a close-up look at the finishes, embellishments and colors. The collection was called “Traces of Time,” and the clothing had a lived-in feel, with lots of soft, crumpled and distressed fabrics soft and supple as pajamas.

Jackets, some in crumpled linen and seersucker, came with fabric belts and were layered over sheer tank tops and slouchy waistcoats. Dark topcoats and trousers made from a lightweight, distressed cotton denim had a bohemian 1970s feel, as did some jacket and trousers combo done in a subtle, navy and white tie-dye pattern.

Other looks had a rough, organic edge. A slouchy fabric bomber was embroidered with a crystal pattern meant to resemble salt formations, while a loose cotton knit was coming apart at the seams — and elsewhere — with bits of string hanging from the front. The team said the pieces are meant to highlight the “personality and self-expression” of the wearer.

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