Those with distinct points of view and an agile instinct for the moment cut through the quiet while the city continues to draw global activations.
SHANGHAI — After a monthlong fashion marathon that went from New York to Paris, a quieter-than-usual Shanghai Fashion Week felt almost like a respite in a still-bustling metropolis that offered no shortage of cultural activities on the side.
Despite business that remains challenging, and a fashion month-fatigued audience, designers such as Samuel Gui Yang, Oude Waag and Pronounce, who could offer something distinctive — and respond nimbly to what is catching the industry’s attention — still generated excitement.
Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel and Chemena Kamali’s Chloé were among the international voices whose influence could be felt in the season’s conversations.
And global names made sure to be present. Activations by Chanel, Prada and Balenciaga also drew traction, as did the Journées Particulières, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s behind-the-scenes glimpse at its houses’ know-how, reflecting how the city’s fashion week increasingly reaches beyond local labels’ shows.
Shanghai’s creative class made a case for growing their business at home and abroad through specific cultural references.
Take Samuel Gui Yang, who offered a compelling read on the Chinese tale of the White Snake and Green Snake sisters, filtering it through the atmosphere and color language of early-1990s Hong Kong cinema. A space with faded features created an atmospheric backdrop for his clothes.
Pinks and greens recalled the palette of the 1993 film version starring Maggie Cheung, while touches of blue, he said, were inspired by David Hockney suggested water.
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