The designer wondered what happens when a shape meets the human body, turning out clothes meant to evolve on the go.
Niccolò Pasqualetti has a magpie eye for objects. So Brazilian artist Lygia Clark’s “Relational objects,” a series of tactile pieces in quotidian, unprecious materials, was right up his alley and informed his spring collection.
More precisely, he wondered what happens when a shape meets the human body, turning that reflection into a lineup where clothing began as squares, triangles and lines, then shifted as they were worn.
“In this case, I started [by] working with my hands on very three-dimensional shapes and trying to work out how they can evolve and move on the body,” he said backstage before the show.
The designer added he likes clothes that “from far away” look like wardrobe pieces, then reveal their details up close. Those included a jacket made of multicolored strips of leather, suede and translucent viscose and a cardigan with panels knit in different directions and with slightly different yarn gauges.
Workwear and rugged materials also played into Pasqualetti’s hand, heavy canvas turning balloon trousers more sculptural or cords pulling crepe dresses and shirt sleeves into new shapes on the go.
Pasqualetti said he was wary of being fixed to one idea and that he’d built evolution into the brand as an antidote to this. Give or take a few too-experimental iterations in his lineup, his spring collection should keep his brand moving forward, too.
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