For their debut, creative directors Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina dialed back the zaniness — save for the show format.
Moschino’s new creative directors Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina, the design duo that founded Sunnei, brought their talent for innovative show formats to the roof of a parking garage in the Milan outskirts.
The golden-hour light first fell on a parade of diverse humanity wearing their regular clothes, some accompanied by their dogs, their children, their bicycles, and of course their cell phones. Sprinkled in were some fashion folk, plus the odd drag queen and gym addict.
Catwalking against this tide came the models in the spring Moschino collection, with the ironic slogans, camp references and visual jokes dialed way, way back.
“Reignite Moschino without imitating it” was one mantra listed on the press notes.
You could read this show as a smart and welcome palate cleanser from the zany overstatement years of Adrian Appiolaza and Jeremy Scott, or shrug indifference to yet another cute, colorful contemporary-looking collection.
Somewhere between these extremes were some fun and striking elements, including Bermuda shorts swishing with colorful raffia, leather pants and breeches edged with toreador tassels, and a black lacquer life-sized cat clutch, which a model propped on her shoulder.
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