Coatings and finishes have never been more fashionable in denim. From high-shine surfaces and grungy tints to crinkled effects and classic stonewashing, finish-driven treatments are making a statement on the runway. Standout examples range from Lacoste’s clay-covered jeans to Diesel’s peel-off-effect denim—each demonstrating how unconventional finishes are redefining the look and feel of denim.

The trend is also proving to have mainstream appeal. At Kingpins Amsterdam last week, global mills presented Spring/Summer 2028 concepts that push denim beyond traditional indigo constructions. This growing interest in more expressive finishes is also challenging chemical specialists and technology providers to develop efficient, sustainable processes that can achieve these looks.

Italian chemical producer Soko Chimica’s new Resoko Underglass creates the glass-like finish that’s in high demand. Paolo Pontello, Soko’s R&D manager, explained that the process, which involves a chemical spray and pressing, can achieve a range of looks, from a subtle sheen to bold, foil-like effects. By adjusting the amount of product applied, brands can control the visual intensity of the finish. Fabrics treated with Underglass also have a notably softer hand feel than those treated with other finishing technologies on the market.

Soko also presented Soko Shadow, a technique that plays with dye-resistance and color migration to create rich contrasts and vintage-inspired tones without relying on harsh discharge chemicals. The contrasts are especially visible on seams and pockets. Soko showed garments that layer Soko Shadow with other finishing technologies like laser and ozone to amplify the depth and visual interest.

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