Simone Bellotti challenged himself to bring some fragility and vulnerability to pristine tailoring, yielding an approachable, soothing collection.

Simone Bellotti had no images tacked to his tall white mood board backstage at Jil Sander on Wednesday morning, so you focused on his words — and the serene, mind-clearing scent of Santa Maria Novella potpourri that filled the small room.

For his third show at the Milan-based house, he challenged himself to bring some fragility and “vulnerability” to typical Jil Sander outfits.

“The uniform is always associated with being tough and strong and powerful,” the designer remarked.

And so he tinkered with his tailoring, moving the button stance of trim single-breasted jackets upwards, suggesting introverted personalities. Looser, double-breasted models were also striking, with two buttons also up near the Adam’s apple, letting the jacket front swing free, sometimes coiling like a scarf point.

He also experimented with waist suppression on coats and tailored jackets, and the deliberate puckering was not always flattering. He realizes this.

“It’s not easy for everyone. But we have other solutions,” he said with a smile, suggesting there would be more wearable versions in the showroom.

Still, this suggestion of awkwardness, light fabrics and soothing colors had a cumulative effect, making the pristine, buttoned-up world of Jil Sander seem warmer, more approachable and even tender.

Reassuring too was the way he stuck to a “very classic feeling” hinged on tailored jackets, tailored coats, dress trousers and pencil skirts. ,” he noted.

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