Artistic director Demna felt this collection was the first to reflect his complete personal vision for the brand.

Gucci’s show location was set as a store complete with marble walls, a bas-relief, a rail of clothes and shelves displaying the brand’s accessories. The store is a blueprint for a future Gucci unit and, like this collection, was further evidence of Demna’s increasingly clear vision for the brand. It oozed sophistication and, as the designer indicated during a preview, solidified the aesthetic developed across the previous seasons.

He divided the show into two parts, the first dedicated to men’s followed by the women’s portion as he felt that each should get their equal moment in the spotlight. Both the male and female models had attitude to spare, walking determinedly through the rooms of the imaginary store, potentially a blueprint for the future, Demna said.

The two lineups were cohesive, reflecting Demna’s point of view. There were echoes of his days at Balenciaga in the Gothic tailoring, the oversize proportions and elongated shoes, but he succeeded in translating these elements into the Gucci universe. He carefully punctuated some of the looks with high belts with three horsebit closures, or splashed the GG logo on the linings of parkas, never overdoing it, which contributed to the luxurious feel of the collection. The first women’s look telegraphed Gucci’s equestrian legacy, but rendered more modern. Cue the sleek three-button fitted short jacket — a small silver horse bit on each lapel — over the tightest white breeches and riding boots that are sure to be hits.

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