The Amsterdam-based fine jeweler is unveiling Friday two six-piece high jewelry suites, a stepping stone toward a more ambitious play in the segment planned for 2028.

PARIS — For Bibi van der Velden, high jewelry is where you can go all in.

On Friday, the Dutch jeweler will be finally throwing her hat into this segment that continues to shine even as luxury turned gloomy, with the unveiling of her first high jewelry designs in Amsterdam.

“My personal preference, and maybe also talent, lies in more intricate pieces,” she told WWD. “So I was always doing bespoke on the side, where I would get the opportunity to go crazy with big stones, with pieces that would transform.”

While fine jewelry with sculptural, organic volumes has remained a main driver for her eponymous brand launched 21 years ago, her clients have had plenty of time to develop a growing appetite for, say, a ring that becomes a necklace, which also detaches to be worn as a bracelet — and most recently, white diamonds galore.

“We’ve slowly taken them by the hand, and we’ve gone more extreme as the years went by,” she said.

In “Eclipse,” which consists of two six-piece suites, one in all-white diamonds and the other in a delicate gradient that plays on their combination with gray spinels, the jeweler worked around her signature alligator. To her, the reptile is “very much about female empowerment and giving women this edge that we sometimes need.”

“I wanted to go in a much more architectural, abstract direction,” she said.

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