The designer looked to 1990s figure skating, where athletic precision met theatrical glamour, for a collection that made the effort part of the spectacle.

David Koma said spring 2027 began with a contradiction in figure skating. “I was trying to explore the discipline behind the glam and the amount of work it requires to make something difficult look effortless,” he said during a preview.

Tonya Harding, specifically the 2017 movie “I, Tonya” about her starring Margot Robbie, supplied a complicated heroine: raw, ambitious and determined.

Koma translated that friction into a wardrobe where delicate pastels met stark black, and sculptural structure gave way to fluidity. “I really wanted something extremely summery but cold,” he said, describing the icy palette of rose, mint, ivory and silver.

Compulsory figures, circles and figure eights traced across the ice, reappeared as crystal spirals centered with mother-of-pearl, embroidered onto dresses and reworked as cutouts. Elsewhere, gathered satin formed circular openings, while transparent black mesh stretched around the body in delicate geometric shapes.

Movement was the collection’s strongest argument. Feather plumes swept around the body, and rows of silk fringe attached to rigid boning bent and swayed with the wearer. In these pieces, construction was not hidden but made part of the performance. Hand-pleated miniskirts, their shape supported from within, explored the same tension.

That interplay continued in the styling: satin bombers and voluminous shorts evoked warm-up clothes, while a draped jacket created a soft, protective cocoon. Sequins woven into a lightweight cardigan and flashes of silver beadwork brought a couture-level finish to the collection’s athletic offering.

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