The fall 2027 collection is the first under the tenure of Kerstin Dorst, who joined in January as senior vice president of Hugo Boss’ womenswear business unit.

So said Kerstin Dorst, who joined Hugo Boss as senior vice president of the womenswear business unit in January and is resetting the category starting with its fall 2027 offering.

It was a long-overdue move, given that the Boss brand had “lost the creativity of what we can do with a wardrobe, and that’s obviously what the consumer wants and needs,” she told WWD in an interview at the brand’s Paris headquarters.

Potential is there, given womenswear accounts for around 10 percent of the business — steady but without a breakthrough, according to the company.

This is the opportunity Dorst intends to tap with a lineup rife with handsome jackets and coats, but also came with smartly cut dresses, knitwear and plenty of interesting details that prevented the ensemble from feeling buttoned-up.

Rather than a target share of sales, the ambition is to reinstall the brand in the minds of women, as part of the “better before bigger” leitmotiv of the Claim 5 Touchdown turnaround strategy unveiled in December by the German company, which has since come under control of British conglomerate Frasers Group on Oct. 23.

Dorst’s arrival came as part of a new organizational structure, described by the company as “designed to ensure gender-specific expertise across all brand and product areas, unlock synergies, and drive efficiency and collaboration” between the Boss and Hugo brands.

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