Ian Griffiths explored "utility chic," equipping women with trench coats, safari jackets and cargo vests .

“Utility lux!” Ian Griffiths chirped at 9:10 on Thursday morning, just ahead of a Max Mara show hinged on useful, functional garments like safari jackets, cargo vests and trench coats — even if the wearer never opens the bellows pockets, or fastens the storm flap.

“Tokens of a busy woman who’s got a busy life” was how the designer characterized such garments. “They make you feel like you’re equipped for your day.”

One of fashion’s longest serving creative directors — he’s been with the company nearly 40 years — Griffiths has been down the utility lane before, as the ’90s Max Mara ads tacked to his mood board attested, Carolyn Murphy looking resplendent in her safari suit of yore.

Murphy shared the mood board with such adventurous, globe-trotting types as Amelia Earhart, Beryl Markham, Freya Stark and Osa Johnson, whose 1930s spirit could be felt in the pin curls, glacier glasses and jaunty Bermudas.

Here was another smooth, confident Max Mara show, free of gimmicks, overstatement and obvious trends. (There was only one visible bra, the most ubiquitous top this Milan season.)

And so you focused on the finesse of garments in such meaty linens and lustrous gabardines you could swear sometimes it was leather — and the slinky knit dresses, which were sexy without being too tight, too sheer or too revealing.

Cutout backs and halter necklines, perhaps not so functional, added some spice — as did a flight suit and a pair of cargo pants in black organza.

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