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Luxury Briefing: What’s the true value of the vintage remake?

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Luxury Briefing: What’s the true value of the vintage remake?

When does vintage inspiration become a designer rip-off? This week, a look at the controversy surrounding Connor Ives’ coats and the growing influence of secondhand fashion on luxury design. Plus, what the latest earnings reveal about the booming resale market, my conversation with Emilia Wickstead on the risks of playing it too safe, and executive moves at Ralph Lauren and Bergdorf Goodman. For tips or comments, email me at zofia@glossy.co.

Shoppers asking Seattle-based Rozier Vintage for the Conner Ives look are spending upward of $1,600 on its reworked vintage jackets. The retailer sold 20 pieces within days of launching a dedicated collection on October 25, most in the first hour, according to founder Lizzie Mintus. Its customers are paying a premium for vintage sourcing and alterations, raising a question for designer brands drawing on the same historical styles: What additional value does their label bring?

“We sourced vintage jackets and added custom fur trim for our own collection,” Mintus told Glossy. It launched to Rozier’s First Look subscribers on October 25 and the public on October 26. “Every piece is vintage and upcycled in-house.”

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