Displayed at a historic library, the collection accentuated the function and purpose of classic garment archetypes.

Utility has become a new talking point in Milan, including at Loro Piano, which titled its spring collection “Solutions For” and exalted the virtues of a camel blazer (natural authority), a field jacket (functional pockets), a duffle coat (fast-fastening toggles) and a pleated skirt (freedom of movement).

The clothes were installed on mannequins in the grandiose library of the Palazzo di Brera, lorded over by a huge portrait of Empress Maria Theresa of Habsburg and three enormous crystal chandeliers.

Given the accent on function and occasion, the collection was largely oriented toward outdoorsy, country pursuits, including golf. A British sensibility could be felt in some of the colors and the floral patterns.

What it lacked in currency, surprise and youth, it made up for with finesse, and a host of exceptional fabrics which quietly, superbly do their job. (It’s worth noting that the word “luxury” did not appear once across three extensive press releases about the collection.)

And so a blazer in Donegal tweed was smooth and nearly cool to the touch; a navy knit ensemble in its Royal Lightness wool-silk blend boasted a natural elasticity, and a men’s suede jacket practically melted into the fingers when you grabbed a sleeve.

A quarter-zip in seersucker material and bomber jackets in tech silk were among the zingier propositions, and the eveningwear propositions, well shy of tuxedos and ballgowns, were compelling.

The presentation extended into a hushed reading room where Loro Piana artisans were hand-stitching buttonholes; screen-printing sunflowers onto double-face cashmere, and hand-polishing Made in Japan sunglasses, this elite brand’s latest lifestyle extension — and a very functional one.

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